San Francisquito

If you have time for a day-long excursion (or more), the three- to four-hour drive east to the Sea of Cortez covers some beautiful mountain and desert scenery, ending at a seaside fishing camp on Bahía Santa Teresa.

From Highway 1, watch for a turnoff to San Francisquito (signed for El Arco) about 30 kilometers south of Guerrero Negro. The road passes over a steep hill called Cuesta de la Ley (Slope of the Law), about 29 kilometers before San Francisquito. Some supplies are usually to be found in El Arco, 34 kilometers east of Mexico 1.

A better stop is at Rancho Piedras Blancas, another 25 kilometers east of El Arco. Located in a spectacular setting among giant cardóns, cirios, and ocotillos inside the newly designated Valle de los Cirios national park, the ranch has been selected by the government as a site for the future development of ecologically sound cabins available for tourists.

An alternative route to San Francisquito comes from Bahía de los Angeles [1] and takes about the same amount of time. The Baja 1000 road race uses this route, and some say this wrecks the road, while others claim it helps by creating good tracks that others can follow.

About 45–60 minutes into the drive from Bahía de los Angeles lies Bahía San Rafael, a beautiful bay with a population of one, an ex-shark fisherman from Guaymas named Pancho who has called San Rafael home for 20 years. He’s on the eccentric side but is full of great stories and can sometimes provide meals and beer to travelers for a donation. He also has a rod for fishing from shore for halibut.

Each route generally has long stretches in good condition. Remember to fill your fuel tank wherever you begin and expect to find heavy washboard and incredible scenery along either route.

The two routes to San Francisquito meet near Rancho El Progresso, approximately 21 kilometers east of Bahía San Francisquito. The roads near the ranch are sometimes difficult to navigate: To stay on track toward the bay, choose the branch that heads due east from the ranch.

Camping

The former San Francisquito Resort is now closed, and the entire beach was sold in 2008 to a Mexican developer who plans to build a large luxury resort. In the meantime, you can still camp on the grounds of the resort or farther on along the bay for US$5.