Founded by Falkland Islands  immigrants in 1891, Río Penitente has turned one of the best-preserved houses on any Patagonian estancia into a guesthouse that feels like a step back in time, but it still has essential comforts such as private baths. Most guest rooms in this two-story Victorian have immaculate period furniture and use fireplaces for heat. Activities include horseback riding and fly-fishing in its namesake river, but it’s an ideal place for just relaxing. The restaurant serves lamb-on-a-stake barbecues to tour groups on weekends in particular.
Hostería Estancia Río Penitente (Ruta 9, Km 137, tel. 061/331694, www.hosteriariopenitente.com , US$100/120 s/d with breakfast) is open October to Semana Santa (Holy Week).