Salamá is mostly a ladino town, which really comes alive during its annual fiesta (Sept. 17–21). Other than that, there’s really not much going on here. The old crumbling pedestrian bridge on the edge of town is worth a look, as is the ornate church of San Mateo Apóstol, on the east side of the plaza.
For exploring the areas of Baja Verapaz, a good bet is Eco-Verapaz (8a Avenida 7-12 Zona 1, tel. 7940-0146). It offers mountain biking, caving, horseback riding, guided hikes, and cultural tours with prices somewhere around $40 per day for most itineraries.
The best place to stay in town is the Hotel Real Legendario (8a Avenida 3-57, tel. 7940-0187 or 7940-0540, $15 d), with clean rooms, all with private bath, firm beds, and cable TV. There is a small café on the premises.
Another good choice is Hotel Argentina (Diagonal 4, 2-57 Zona 2, Barrio San José, tel. 7940-1004, $15 d), featuring fan-cooled rooms with private hot-water bath and cable TV.
An acceptable backup plan is Hotel Tezulutlán (Ruta 4 4-99 Zona 1, Barrio El Centro, tel. 7940-0141, $8–12 d), with 13 rooms set around a courtyard full of greenery, some with private bath.
Just across the street is Hotel San Ignacio (4a Calle “A” 7-09 Zona 1, tel. 7940-0186, $5–9 d), with 18 bright, airy rooms with or without private hot-water bathroom. There’s a pleasant palapa sitting area overlooking the street.
There are several places to eat near the plaza. For coffee, cakes, and snacks try Café Deli-Donas (15 Calle 6-61).
Cafetería Central (corner of 15 Calle and 9a Avenida) is another good choice, particularly for lunch.
A fancier option is El Balcón de los Recuerdos (8a Avenida 6-28, 8 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat., $5–7), half a block west of the plaza on the way out of town, serving grilled meats and seafood in a fan-cooled dining room.
Though its name evokes images of fast food, Pollo to Go (on the north side of the plaza) serves pretty decent burgers, chicken, and good breakfasts.
There are hourly buses leaving for Guatemala City  from in front of Deli-Donas between 3 a.m. and 8 p.m. The 4 a.m. bus is a nicer, more expensive Pullman. Buses coming from Guatemala City continue west to Rabinal and Cubulco. Buses and minibuses for San Jerónimo  leave from in front of the town hall every half hour 6 a.m.–5:30 p.m.
There are also departures for the La Cumbre Junction with onward connections to Cobán  departing from this same location about every half hour from early morning until 4 p.m.