Rímac

Right across the Río Rímac from Lima [1] is the downtrodden Rímac neighborhood, which began as a mestizo and mulatto barrio during the viceroyalty and was refurbished in the 18th century by the Lima aristocracy. All the sights here are close to the Plaza de Armas—take a taxi, as assaults are common in this area.

The Museo de los Descalzos (end of Alameda Los Descalzos, tel. 01/482-3360, 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3–6 p.m. Tue.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–6 p.m. Sun.) was a convent and spiritual retreat for the Franciscans. Today it contains interesting and elegant cloisters, a chapel with a gold-covered baroque altar, an elegant refectory, and a gallery with more than 300 paintings from the 17th and 18th century—including a masterpiece by Esteban de Murillo.

On the taxi ride home, ask your taxi driver to pass the nearby Paseo de Aguas, an 18th-century French-style promenade where Lima’s elites strolled along its artificial waterways. All that remains today is a neoclassic arch, hidden next to a towering Cristal Beer factory.

Nearby is the giant Plaza de Acho, Lima’s bullring, where bullfights are held early October–early December. Inside is the Museo Taurino (Hualgayoc 332, tel. 01/481-1467, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat., US$1.50), which contains a wide range of bullfighting relics.

Towering above Rímac is Cerro San Cristóbal, where Francisco Pizarro placed a cross in thanks that Quizo Yupanqui and his Inca army did not succeed in crossing the Río Rímac into Lima [1] during the Inca rebellion of 1536. Today the hill is encrusted with a dusty pueblo jóven named Barrios Altos. There is a lookout over Lima at the top, along with a small museum and a giant cross that is illuminated at night. To reach the top, take a taxi from the Plaza de Armas (US$6) or wait for buses with English-speaking guides that leave from the Municipality (US$3.50).