Food

San Francisco [1]'s growing local community of middle-class Americans, Canadians, and Mexicans and the trickle of Puerto Vallarta visitors support a number of recommendable in-town eateries.

For Mexican supper, start at Cenaduria Delfin (on the main street, after 5 p.m.), about a block from the beach. The house specialty is yummy pozole on Saturday and Sunday nights. On another night, head straight to Eva’s Red Chairs taco stand, past the hospital, at the foot of the hill on the way to Restaurant del Mar.

On the same main street in the middle of town, nearly everyone in San Pancho recommends La Ola Rica Restaurant and Bar (6–11 p.m. Tues.–Sun., $5–12). Welcoming owners Triny and Gloria offer fresh seafood and Mexican supper specialties. For good Italian pasta and pizza, go to palapa Restaurant Pizzeria Galloly (tel. 311/258-4135, $6–12), on the south side of the main street about four blocks from the beach.

European-tropical fusion cuisine has arrived in San Pancho, at view Cafe del Mar (5–11 p.m. Thurs.–Tues., closed June–Sept., $10–15) on the hill northeast above the village. Local expatriates rave about the sauces, succulent fish, homemade pasta, exotic drinks ($4), and yummy chocolate cake ($3) that Belgian-born chef Almandine produces daily. Get there by following the street past the hospital (about a quarter mile from the highway); pass Eva’s Red Chairs taco stand and follow the signs uphill.

Additionally, Geno Lamphiear of Calandria Realty recommends a pair of home-grown sources of fine food: Home-cooked seafood abounds at country-style fish market and restaurant La Chalupa (noon–6 or 7 p.m. daily, $5–10) on the beach. Here, get everything—fish, oysters, clams, octopus, shrimp—super-fresh, either for lunch or early dinner beneath the palapa, or for takeout dinner at home. Geno also recommends new Bottega de Sapori Italian bakery, especially for their fresh breads, pizza, lasagna, and desserts. Find it on Calle Latina America, about a block from main street Avenida Tercer Mundo.