Near the ruins, Kinich Kakmó (Calle 27 between 28 and 30, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Sun.–Wed., until 10 p.m. Thu–Sat. US$4–7) is a pleasant palapa-roofed restaurant that serves regional dishes, including a full meal of poc-chuc (marinated grilled pork), beans, salad, and tortillas for US$5. And if you’ve never seen tortillas being made, check out the tiny palapa in back, where two women often can be found sitting around a small fire, patting and cooking them into shape for your meal.
Next to the mercado, Restaurant Los Mestizos (Calle 33 near Calle 30, tel. 988/954-0289, 7 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$5–9) is jam-packed with heavy wood tables, streamers hanging from the ceiling, and Christmas lights flickering around the edges. But the party seems not to have materialized, and Los Mestizos is actually a rather quiet place for a cool drink and a plate of regional food.
Just half a block away, El Toro Restaurante (Calle 33 between Calles 30 and 32, tel. 988/967-3340, 8 a.m.–11 p.m. Tues.–Thurs., 8 a.m.–midnight Fri.–Sun., US$5–9) offers a similar menu—try the salbutes, papadzules, or quesadillas day or night.
Mercado Municipal (facing Parque la Estrella) is where you’ll find fresh produce, dairy, and meats. Shops are open 6 a.m.–2 p.m. daily, and some stay open as late as 8 p.m. Mon–Sat. Behind the market, next to El Toro restaurant, Super Willy’s supermarket is open 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily.
A short drive or taxi ride from town, Hacienda San Antonio Chalanté (outskirts of the town of Sudzal, tel. 999/132-7411, US$4–10) serves delicious home-style meals in a beautiful colonial-era setting. The resident chef serves Yucatecan specialties and international dishes that will leave you wanting to come back for more. Special meals—low cholesterol, low sodium, meatless—are prepared without a fuss; just be sure to let the staff know before you arrive. Reservations required.