Rivas’s obvious centerpiece is a well-loved historical monument repainted in 2007. Built in the 18th century, the Iglesia Parroquial de San Pedro has witnessed the California gold rush, William Walker, the Sandinista revolution, and the 21st-century real estate boom. As you take in the details of the church’s pleasing colonial design, remember that every single gold rush–bound passenger that traversed Nicaragua in the days of Cornelius Vanderbilt’s steamship line passed under its shadow. It is today, as always, a peaceful place to seek refuge; mass is held evenings around 6 p.m.