Almirante

You’d have to be bananas (sorry!) to choose to stay in the small, ramshackle banana-port town of Almirante (pop. 12,430) rather than on the islands, but those who miss the last water taxi from town may end up stranded here for the night.

The main street into Almirante leads from the highway and parallels the railroad tracks as it reaches town. The water-taxi piers are to the right, across the train tracks and not visible from the road.

Getting to Almirante

You’d have to be bananas (sorry!) to choose to stay in the small, ramshackle banana-port town of Almirante (pop. 12,430) rather than on the islands, but those who miss the last water taxi from town may end up stranded here for the night.

The main street into Almirante leads from the highway and parallels the railroad tracks as it reaches town. The water-taxi piers are to the right, across the train tracks and not visible from the road.

Getting to Almirante

By Bus: Try to arrive well before the last water taxi leaves Almirante at 6:30 p.m. Remember that buses often run late and water taxis can fill up.

Note: Long-haul buses from David [1], Panama City [2], and other parts of Panama still do not go into Almirante itself. They drop passengers at the crossroads outside of town and head on to Changuinola [3]. It’s a long walk, especially with luggage, from the crossroads to the water-taxi piers. It’s worth the US$0.50 per person to take a taxi to the pier area.

There are no direct buses from the Costa Rican border crossing at Guabito-Sixaola to Almirante. To get there, take a bus to the Changuinola bus terminal and switch to an Almirante-bound bus, which drops passengers off at the Almirante bus terminal. They leave about every 25 minutes from about 5:45 a.m.–7:45 p.m. The trip takes a half hour and costs US$2. The water-taxi services aren’t visible from the terminal but are within easy walking distance. Look for the train tracks. Cross over them and head left along the waterfront.

By Car: Those with their own transportation will need 9–10 hours from Panama City [2] or 3.5 hours from David [1] to drive straight through to Almirante. Those coming from Panama City should consider breaking the trip somewhere along the way and spending the night. Finca La Suiza [4] and Lost and Found Eco-Resort [4] are good options in the vicinity of Vólcan. Another possibility is Santiago, the provincial capital of Veraguas, on the Interamericana a little under four hours from Panama City. It has a range of services and places to stay but is not exactly a scenic or exciting town.

Coming up the Fortuna Road [5], continue west on the Chiriqué Grande–Almirante Road for about 60 kilometers. The turnoff to Almirante is on the right and comes up quickly. The main road continues to Changuinola [3] and the Costa Rican border. After the turn, the road will fork. Be sure to take the gravel road to the right. Stay straight, with the train tracks on the right, and turn right just before the bus terminal—it should be the first right after the old Bocas Fruit Company sign. The water-taxi piers are up this road.

You’ll probably encounter a boletero (ticket tout) eager to show you the way and take you to the water-taxi service he works for. Park at the fenced-in lot at Leiza’s for US$3 a day. It should be possible to pay when you leave, though you may be asked to pay in advance. I’ve parked here without problems, as have many other travelers. Leiza is friendly and her house is in the middle of the lot.

By Bus: Try to arrive well before the last water taxi leaves Almirante at 6:30 p.m. Remember that buses often run late and water taxis can fill up.

Note: Long-haul buses from David [1], Panama City [2], and other parts of Panama still do not go into Almirante itself. They drop passengers at the crossroads outside of town and head on to Changuinola [3]. It’s a long walk, especially with luggage, from the crossroads to the water-taxi piers. It’s worth the US$0.50 per person to take a taxi to the pier area.

There are no direct buses from the Costa Rican border crossing at Guabito-Sixaola to Almirante. To get there, take a bus to the Changuinola [3] bus terminal and switch to an Almirante-bound bus, which drops passengers off at the Almirante bus terminal. They leave about every 25 minutes from about 5:45 a.m.–7:45 p.m. The trip takes a half hour and costs US$2. The water-taxi services aren’t visible from the terminal but are within easy walking distance. Look for the train tracks. Cross over them and head left along the waterfront.

By Car: Those with their own transportation will need 9–10 hours from Panama City [2] or 3.5 hours from David [1] to drive straight through to Almirante. Those coming from Panama City should consider breaking the trip somewhere along the way and spending the night. Finca La Suiza [4] and Lost and Found Eco-Resort [4] are good options in the vicinity of Vólcan. Another possibility is Santiago, the provincial capital of Veraguas, on the Interamericana a little under four hours from Panama City. It has a range of services and places to stay but is not exactly a scenic or exciting town.

Coming up the Fortuna Road [5], continue west on the Chiriqué Grande–Almirante Road for about 60 kilometers. The turnoff to Almirante is on the right and comes up quickly. The main road continues to Changuinola [3] and the Costa Rican border. After the turn, the road will fork. Be sure to take the gravel road to the right. Stay straight, with the train tracks on the right, and turn right just before the bus terminal—it should be the first right after the old Bocas Fruit Company sign. The water-taxi piers are up this road.

You’ll probably encounter a boletero (ticket tout) eager to show you the way and take you to the water-taxi service he works for. Park at the fenced-in lot at Leiza’s for US$3 a day. It should be possible to pay when you leave, though you may be asked to pay in advance. I’ve parked here without problems, as have many other travelers. Leiza is friendly and her house is in the middle of the lot.