Recreation

Hiking and looking for quetzals in the national parks are the big activities here, but there are a few other outdoor possibilities. White-water companies are headquartered in Boquete [1], on the other side of Barú, but they can usually pick clients up here for trips on either side of the mountain.

Cerro Punta [2] produces the finest horses in the country. Visitors can arrange rides on much more modest steeds for around US$5–6 an hour. Los Quetzales Lodge and Spa (tel. 771-2182 or 771-2291, fax 771-2226, www.losquetzales.com [3]) charges US$8 an hour, with an extra US$5 for a guide. The hotel also rents mountain bikes for US$5 an hour.

Genover Santamaria is a friendly, reliable local guide who works with Los Quetzales Lodge and Spa. He specializes in long hikes, including ones to the summit of Volcán Barú [4] (US$80 for two people) and Sendero Los Quetzales [5] to Boquete (US$40 for two people). He’s also available for multiday treks. Ask for him at the hotel.

A good guide is essential on wilderness trails, particularly up Volcán Barú. But for nearby, less rugged destinations, it’s simpler to make arrangements on your own than go through a guide. This is especially true of visits to Finca Dracula [6], which supplies its own tour guides for a fraction of what third-party outfits charge.