Alternatively, check out the queen of zócalo-front hotels, the long-time Hotel Marques del Valle (on the north flank of the zócalo, Portal Clavería, tel. 951/514-0688 or 951/516-3474, fax 951/516-9961, www.hotelmarquesdelvalle.com.mx , $119 s or d, $145 t). Guests enter through a restored lobby, bright with gleaming chandelier, mirrors, and shiny dark-wood paneling. Upstairs, however, massive wrought-iron fixtures cast gloomy nighttime shadows through the soaring, balconied central atrium. The 96 rooms, nevertheless, retain their original 1940s polish, with handcrafted cedar furniture and marble-finished baths. Deluxe rooms have TV, carpets, and some balconies looking out onto the zócalo. With a good restaurant/bar, limited wheelchair access, credit cards accepted, and parking 8:30 p.m.–8:30 a.m.