Many large Russian River  wineries make a wine out of every varietal under the hot Sonoma sun, but Battaglini Estate Winery (2948 Piner Rd., Santa Rosa, 707/578-4091, www.battagliniwines.com ) has chosen instead to specialize. Inside the cute wood-paneled tasting room with the homey cluttered bar, you’ll find only Zinfandels, Chardonnays, and Petit Sirahs. However, the expression of each of these grapes approaches perfection.
You’ll also see a few unusual manifestations, such as a late-harvest dessert Chardonnay. For the most fun you can have during the crowded harvest season, join Battaglini in the fall for a “Stomp” event, during which you’ll literally take off your shoes and dive into a bucket of grapes.