The village of Embudo is really just a bend in the river, but it offers a couple of good eating options.
First up is beautiful Embudo Station (Hwy. 68, 505/852-4707, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Tues.–Sun. Apr.–Nov., $14), a little lodge right on the water where you can have a lunch of smoked trout under the shade of a big cottonwood; wash it down with a house-brewed beer.
Friday–Sunday, Sugar’s (Hwy. 68, 505/852-0604, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Wed.–Mon., $5), just up the road on the right, does a big barbecue dinner with ribs, brisket, sausage, and two sides; the rest of the week you can get a simple pulled-pork sandwich or chicken-fried steak. It’s takeout only, but there are a few plastic picnic tables where you can sit down. (The property was for sale in 2008—and had been for a while—so there’s a chance it will shut; call ahead, or have a backup plan.)
If you’re into wine, keep an eye out for the various wineries just north of here: Vivác is on the main highway (2075 Hwy. 68, 505/579-4441, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat., noon–6 p.m. Sun.), and La Chiripada (505/579-4437, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., noon–5 p.m. Sun.) is down Highway 75 a few miles in the pleasant little town of Dixon, known for its dense concentration of artists, organic farmers, and vintners—a worthwhile detour in itself, especially in early November for the long-running Dixon Studio Tour (www.dixonarts.org ), or on summer and fall Wednesdays (4:30–7 p.m.) for the village farmers market.