Accommodations

If rustic casual is your style, consider the Antelope Lodge (2310 W. Hwy. 90, 432/837-2451, www.antelopelodge.com [1], $54–79). Built in the late 1940s as part of the national “motor lodge” trend, this decidedly unmodern lodge revels in its historic charm. Cottages and guest rooms contain kitchenettes with two-burner stoves, mini refrigerators, and available microwaves and utensils (call in advance). Each cottage has a stone porch with weathered chairs for enjoying the cool mountain air.

For those in need of just the basics, the Highland Inn (1404 E. Hwy. 90, 432/837-5811, www.highlandinn.net [2], $55 d) offers simple and stark rooms with charmingly mismatched furniture. Located directly across the road from Sul Ross State University, the Highland Inn features a microwave and fridge in each room along with Wi-Fi access and an outdoor pool.

The best option in this price range, however, is the comfy and casual Maverick Inn (1200 E. Holland Ave., 432/837-0628, www.themaverickinn.com [3], $90 d). This former motor court received an extensive renovation, with modern amenities like Wi-Fi service, flat-screen TVs, fancy linens, regional artwork, Saltillo-tiled floors, mini-refrigerators, and microwaves.

One of the only chain hotels in far West Texas is the reliable Ramada Inn (2800 W. Hwy. 90, 432/837-1100, www.ramada.com [4], $99 d) offering free Internet access, a free hot breakfast, an indoor pool, hot tub, and fitness center.

For a truly memorable stay in Alpine [5], reserve a room or loft at the magnificent Holland Hotel (209 W. Holland Ave., 432/837-3844, www.hollandhotel.net [6], $55–150). Built in 1912 for cattlemen and the occasional tourist, this impressive downtown hotel will charm you from the moment you enter the ornate front doors, where your room assignment awaits in an envelope (it’s taped to the door). There aren’t any standard rooms at the Holland—they range from tiny to sprawling—but you can get a sense of what’s available by previewing options on the hotel’s website.

All rooms feature eclectic furnishings and colors along with private bathrooms, refrigerators, and microwaves. Incidentally, free earplugs are available at the hotel office (open 8 a.m.–5 p.m.) to help silence the trains that occasionally blast through town in the middle of the night. For fancier digs, consider the Holland Guest Lofts ($115–195), the misleadingly named ground-floor suites in the historic building adjacent to the Holland Hotel. Guests access the rooms via a welcoming landscaped courtyard, and the spacious accommodations include Internet access and coffee makers with free juice and pastry baskets.

A mountain getaway is often a good excuse to stay at a cozy B&B like the White House Inn (2003 Fort Davis Hwy., 432/837-1401, www.whitehouseinntexas.com [7], $89–139). The large house offers several rooms with fancy linens, cable TV, microwaves, refrigerators, stoves, and cooking utensils. The upstairs suite is worth considering for its privacy and access to a balcony—perfect for relaxing with a coffee in the cool, dry air. The inn also offers small cottages with kitchenettes.