This rocky island in the middle of the bay is blessed with two natural resources. The obvious one crawls along the ocean floor and is steamed and served with melted butter. Vinalhaven is famed for its lobster boats, which crowd the lanes of Carver’s Harbor and air their traps on the docks. The island’s other resource is the granite that was hewn out of stone quarries and made the island famous for girding the buildings in Boston [1] and New York City [2].
In the early 20th century, Vinalhaven became a popular place for old-money families to summer; even today, plutocrats come every July and August to inhabit cottages on the secluded shores of the island and even quieter North Haven, the island immediately to the north. The combination of a working harbor, cosmopolitan summer crowd, and quiet natural beauty make the perfect place to get away from it all.
The Vinalhaven Historical Society (41 High St., 207/863-4410, www.vinalhavenhistoricalsociety.org [3], 11 a.m.–3 p.m. daily Jul.–Aug.; Tue.–Sat. early June–mid-Sept., free) has a small museum with artifacts from the lobster industry and the heyday of the granite trade. The hulking iron “galamander” used to haul the granite to shore still sits at the top of Main Street. On the harbor sits a 50-foot-long granite column that was commissioned for a war monument that was never built.
One of the few places to grab a beer on the island is The Sand Bar (63 Main St., 207/863-4500, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. or later daily), a convivial dive frequented by lobstermen and teenagers alike, with a jukebox and occasional live music, as well as pub fare and pizzas.
The whole island comes out on Saturday mornings for flea markets in the open field by the galamander. Whether or not you find a treasure, it’s a great way to meet the locals.
The Maine State Ferry Service (207/596-2202, www.maine.gov [4]) runs between four and five ferries a day from Rockland [5], located on Port Terminal Road off Main Street. Fares are $17.50 round-trip for adults, $8.50 round-trip for children ages 5–11. Children under 5 ride free. Room for cars can be quite tight, especially in the summer when vehicles are often booked months in advance. Rates, if you can get a reservation, are $49.50 round-trip.
Thankfully, cars aren’t a necessity on Vinalhaven, especially if you plan on spending most of your time in and around Carver’s Harbor, which is compact and easily walkable. If you want to venture farther afield, you’ll need your own wheels, as there is no public transportation or taxis on the island. If you can’t bring your car, rent a bike from the Tidewater Motel (Main St., 207/863-4618).
Links:
[1] http://www.moon.com/destinations/new-england/massachusetts/boston
[2] http://www.moon.com/destinations/new-york-city-long-island/discover-new-york-city
[3] http://www.vinalhavenhistoricalsociety.org
[4] http://www.maine.gov
[5] http://www.moon.com/destinations/new-england/maine/midcoast/penobscot-bay/rockland