Jackson Hole  has a wide range of entertainment options: cowboy bars where saddles double as bar stools, classical concerts beneath the stars, playful family musicals, rodeos  and chuck-wagon dinners , and much more.
At the modern 525-seat theater within Jackson Hole Center for the Arts (307/733-4900, www.jhcenterforthearts.org ) you might see everyone from Leo Kottke and Herbie Hancock to the Preservation Hall Jazz Band and Willie Nelson.
In 2009, Teton County instituted a no-smoking measure that prohibits smoking in restaurants, bars, and workplaces, along with many outdoor locations such as chairlift lines, restaurant patios, and sports arenas. Because of this, virtually all Jackson Hole restaurants and bars are now entirely smoke-free.
The only exception is the smoky Virginian Bar (750 W. Broadway Ave.) on the south end of town. (This will change if the Virginian loses an ongoing lawsuit over the issue.)
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Grand Targhee Resort, and Snow King Resort all prohibit smoking except in designated areas.
Barflies will keep buzzing in Jackson , especially during midsummer and midwinter, when visitors pack local saloons every night of the week. At least one club always seems to have live tunes; check Jackson’s free newspapers to see what’s where. Cover charges are generally $5 on the weekends, and most other times you’ll get in free. See the free Jackson Hole Weekly (307/732-0299, www.planetjh.com ) for upcoming music and other entertainment.
The famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar (on the west side of Town Square , 307/733-2207, www.milliondollarcowboybar.com ) is a favorite of real cowboys and their wannabe cousins. Inside the Cowboy you’ll discover burled lodgepole pine beams, four pool tables (nearly always in use), display cases with stuffed dead bears and other cuddly critters, bars inlaid with old silver dollars, and bar stools made from old saddles.
Until the 1950s, the Cowboy was Jackson’s center for illegal gambling. Bartenders kept a close eye on Teton Pass, where messengers used mirrors to deliver warnings of coming federal revenuers, giving folks at the bar time to hide the gaming tables in a back room.
Today the dance floor fills with honky-tonking couples as the bands croon lonesome cowboy tunes six nights a week (Mon.-Sat.). Looking to learn swing and two-step dancing? You can join an excellent free beginners’ class at 7:30 p.m. every Thursday, and then dance up a storm when the band comes on at 9.
Silver Dollar Bar & Grill (50 N. Glenwood St., 307/732-3939, www.worthotel.com ) inside the Wort Hotel offers a setting that might seem more fitting in Las Vegas: Gaudy pink neon lights curve around a bar inlaid with 2,032 (count ‘em!) silver dollars. It tends to attract an older crowd with nightly drink specials (best martinis in Jackson), but Tuesday nights are the notable exception, when bluegrass bands and no cover attract a packed house of partying 20-somethings.
In Teton Village is Mangy Moose Restaurant & Saloon (307/733-4913, www.mangymoose.net ) Jackson Hole ’s jumpingest pickup spot and the place to rock out. The Moose attracts a hip skier/outdoorsy crowd with rock, blues, or world beat bands (Wed.-Sat., sometimes nightly) both summer and winter. This is also where you’ll hear nationally known acts. Upcoming acts are listed on the Mangy Moose website. The on-site restaurant serves food until 10 p.m.
On the way to Teton Village, and next door to Calico Restaurant, Q Roadhouse (2550 Moose-Wilson Rd., 307/739-0700, www.qjacksonhole.com , daily 5-10 p.m.) is a cavernous, indestructible pub (concrete floors and an industrial décor), where the menu includes wings, blackened catfish, and jambalaya. Toss your peanut shells on the floor and join the happy crowds of locals listening to rock tunes (live bands Thurs. nights) and putting back the beers.
Jammed against the hill on the west end of town, Sidewinders Sports Grill & Tavern (802 W. Broadway Ave., 307/734-5766, www.sidewinderstavern.com , daily 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m.) is a bar/restaurant with pub grub, 30 beers on tap, and a couple-dozen flat-screen TVs for sports enthusiasts. Look for the enormous American flag out front. Downstairs is trendy Ignight (307/734-1997, www.ignightjacksonhole.com , $8-14), with freshly squeezed juice cocktails at the martini bar, along with sushi, ceviche, salads, and a variety of finger food. Live music (Thurs.-Sat. nights) enlivens the classy setting.
The Granary (307/733-8833 or 800/443-6139, www.springcreekranch.com ) atop East Gros Ventre Butte has mellow jazz (Fri. nights) and piano tunes (Sat.).
Over in Wilson, The Stagecoach Bar (307/733-4407) is the place to be on Sunday nights 6-10 p.m., when locals call it “the church.” In the 1970s, when hippies risked getting their heads shaved by rednecks at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar, they found the ‘Coach a more tolerant place. Today, tobacco-chewing cowpokes show their partners slick moves on the tiny dance floor as the Stagecoach Band (jokingly known as the “worst country-western band in the U.S.”) runs through the country tunes one more time; the band has performed here every Sunday since 1969!
Outside you’ll find picnic tables and a volleyball court for pickup games in the summer, or pick up a cue stick and show off your billiard skills indoors. The Mexican-infused bar food comes from Pica’s Taqueria, with burritos, tacos, burgers, quesadillas, and more. Also popular are the Thursday-night disco parties with a dance-club atmosphere and a fog machine; it’s a great time to dress up in Saturday Night Fever garb.
In addition to the bar scene, summers bring several lighthearted acting ventures to Jackson . For family musicals such as Paint Your Wagon, Nunsense, or Annie Get Your Gun, head to Jackson Hole Playhouse (145 W. Deloney, 307/733-6994, www.jhplayhouse.com ). Shows take place Monday-Saturday evenings in a campy 1890s-style setting; tickets are $26 adults, $22 ages 13-18, and $19 ages 5-12. A family saloon (no alcohol; what kind of a saloon is that?) and restaurant are next door. More serious productions are offered in the winter.
A professional repertory group, the Off Square Theatre Company (307/733-3670, www.offsquare.org ) stages Broadway comedies in the summer at the Jackson Hole Center for the Arts, with dramatic productions the rest of the year.
In existence for more than 50 years, the Grand Teton Music Festival (307/733-1128, www.gtmf.org ) takes place at Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village, with performances of classical and modern works by a cast of 200 world-renowned symphony musicians. Concerts are at 8 p.m. from the first of July to mid-August each year, with free “Inside the Music” concerts on Tuesday, Wednesday-night spotlight concerts ($41 adults, $10 kids) featuring jazz, bluegrass, and Afro-Cuban music, and Thursday-night “musicians’ choice” classical chamber music ($25 adults, $10 kids).
Full festival orchestra concerts on Friday and Saturday are $52 adults, $10 kids. They also perform a free outdoor Music in the Hole patriotic concert on the Fourth of July for an audience that tops 8,000, plus special youth concerts and other events. Three-hour-long Friday-morning rehearsals are just $10.
Watch flicks downtown at Teton Theatre (120 N. Cache Dr.) and Jackson Hole Twin Cinema (295 W. Pearl St.), or south of town at MovieWorks (860 S. U.S. Hwy. 89). All three of these have the same movie line: 307/733-4939. Find this week’s films online at www.jacksonholecinemas.com .