The Prime Rib $$$

1101 N. Calvert St., 410/539-1804,
www.theprimerib.com [1]

HOURS: Mon.–Thurs. 5–11 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m.,
Sun. 4–10 p.m.

COST: Most entrées more than $20

If you want to know what going out to a no-holds-barred prime rib steak dinner with the boys in 1973 Baltimore [2] was like, head to this well-preserved but still vital luxurious steakhouse in an unassuming building east of Mount Vernon. The chairs are huge leather thrones; the waiters are tuxedoed and battle-tested; the floors are cheetah-print; the piano lid is Lucite; the drinks are stiff and the wine list decadent.

But the beef here (as well as the other food) is excelsior, and The Prime Rib was recently anointed by Esquire magazine for producing one of the best 20 steaks in America. It’s a place worth dressing up for, which is good, because jackets are required.