Accommodations along this coast are not exactly cheap, especially in the summer, when prices go up and booking in advance becomes essential. You’ll find the greatest concentration of hotels in Juqueí, Camburi, Camburizinho, Boiçucanga, and Maresias , with the latter two offering the widest selection in terms of quality and price. If you’re looking for something more affordable, try São Sebastião  itself.
Camburi Hostel (Rua Tijucas 2300, Camburi, tel. 12/3863-6880, www.ajcamburi.com.br , R$30 pp, R$65–75 d) is a very appealing hostel run by an eco-friendly couple. Hidden within a patch of Atlantic rainforest (and a fair hike from the beach), it is surrounded by waterfalls and hiking trails. Rooms for couples, families of four, and groups of up to six are available. Amenities include a 24-hour kitchen, a barbecue area, a library full of English-language books, and a vast garden with hammocks and a pool. If you call in advance, the owners will pick you up from the closest bus stop, 2 kilometers (1 mile) away, for R$5. They also offer transportation to and from the beach.
Another great bargain is the simple but charming Pousada da Ana Doce (Rua Expedicionário Brasileiro 196, São Sebastião, tel. 12/3892-1615, www.pousadaanadoce.com.br , R$100–120 d), which occupies a lovely old house in São Sebastião ’s historical center. The owners are welcoming and the small but quaint rooms feature verandas overlooking a pretty internal garden.
Opened in 2007, Pousada Porto Mare (Rua Sebastião Romão César 400, Maresias, tel. 12/3865-5272, www.pousadaportomare.com.br , R$220 d) is a welcome new addition to Maresias ’s sometimes less-than-inspiring choice of hotels. Although it’s right in the middle of the movimento, the large garden, featuring a pool and sauna, offers respite, as do the modern, tastefully appointed rooms.
On beautiful Praia da Barra do Sai, Pousada da Foca (tel. 12/3863-6800, www.pousadadafoca.com.br , R$240–270 d) has comfortable, attractively decorated rooms (including a few with mezzanines for families or groups). The bar serves drinks around a lovely pool, overlooking a thick patch of rainforest, as well as on the beach.
Playing right into a Hollywood cliché of a secluded hotel in the tropics is
Pousada Ilha de Toque-Toque (Toque-Toque Grande, tel. 12/3864-9110, www.ilhadetoquetoque.com.br , R$270–350 d). Perched on a lush hillside overlooking Praia Toque-Toque Grande, and with access to Praia de Calhetas, this rustic-chic pousada boasts a gorgeous pool and decks and patios galore. A launch takes small groups snorkeling and diving.
The spa is not the only antistress tonic you’ll encounter at the alluring Villa Bebek (Rua Zezito 251, Camburizinho, tel. 12/3865-3320, www.villabebek.com.br , R$350–480 d), located on hip Camburizinho beach. The beautifully decorated bungalow rooms—featuring Balinese ornaments and original artworks—are soothing enough, as are the landscaped gardens. However, the real treat is stepping out of your room and into the courtyard swimming pool shaped like a long, curvy river—a distraction so enticing that you’ll be hard-pressed to make it to the beach.