Food

Like its hotels [1], restaurants on Ilhabela [2] are not exactly cheap, although you can always spend the day nibbling away at barraca fare on the beaches. Vila Ilhabela [3] has a few lanchonetes and some scenic bars along the waterfront where you can fill up on petiscos and ice-cold beer.

Cheiro Verde (Rua da Padroeira 109, tel. 12/3896-3245, noon–11 p.m. Sun.–Fri., noon–11 p.m. Sat., R$10–20) offers honest home-cooking for great prices. The lunchtime PFs (prato feitos)—consisting of a choice of fish, shrimp, squid, chicken, or beef with feijão, fries, and salad—inspire lineups during high season.

For lunch, a decent inexpensive option at Perequê is Cura (Rua Princesa Isabel 337, tel. 12/3896-1341, 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Tues.–Sun., R$10–20), which lays out a tasty and varied self-service buffet.

A little north of Vila Ilhabela [3], Deck is a favorite local hangout (Av. Almirante Tamandaré 805/821, Itaguassu, tel. 12/3896-1489, www.deckrestaurantehotel.com.br [4], noon–midnight Sun.–Tues. and Thurs., noon–2 a.m. Fri.–Sat., noon–2 a.m. daily in Jan.–Feb., R$25–35), with a relaxing beachfront setting and an oddly eclectic menu reuniting seafood, German specialties, and pizzas.

More upscale, but also popular with the natives, is Viana (Av. Leonardo Reale 1560, Praia da Viana, tel. 12/3896-1089, www.viana.com.br [5], 1–11:30 p.m. Fri.–Sun., 1–11:30 p.m. daily Dec.–Feb. and July, R$40–60), where you can eat inside or right on the sand (while watching the sunset). The menu features fresh fish and seafood cooked with Brazilian seasoning and flair. The main attraction is camarão, which comes in versions such as shrimp with mango risotto, and Bahian style moqueca, flavored with coconut milk.

For a change of scenery, head to Barulho d’Agua (Rua Manual Pombo 250, Praia de Curral, tel. 12/3896-1406, www.barulhodagua.com.br [6], 8:30 a.m.–1 a.m. daily, R$30–45). The name of this pousada/restaurant—Sound of Water—is inspired by the river that runs right by the enchantingly decorated dining area, nestled in a patch of forest. The imaginative cuisine relies on fresh ingredients that result in creations such as artichoke hearts with gratinéed shrimp, and salmon with cashew nuts in a passion fruit sauce.

Meanwhile, back in Vila Ilhabela [3], you can satisfy ice-cream cravings with a cone or picolé (popsicle) at Sorveteria Rocha (Rua São Benedito 23/31, tel. 12/3896-1793, www.sorveteriarocha.com.br [7]), whose factory in São Sebastião [8] has been churning out ice cream since 1948.