Accommodations

The hotels in and around Ubatuba [1] are generally more affordable than those in other resorts along the Litoral Norte [2]. For bargain-seekers, Pousadinha (Rua Gurani 536, Itaguá, Ubatuba, www.pousadinha.com.br [3], tel. 12/3832-2136, R$60–90 d) is a convenient option in the center of town. It is close to Praia da Itaguá, which looks pretty, but whose waters are unsuitable for swimming. (Henry Miller fans take note: The Tropic of Capricorn passes through here.) The basic but clean rooms occupy an appealing old villa whose exterior is painted a bright shade of watermelon pink. Groups or families of four can also rent chalets with fully equipped kitchens.

South of town, Pousada da Ana Doce (Travessa JK 54, Praia do Lázaro, tel. 12/3842-1336, www.pousadaanadoce.com.br [4], R$140–160 d) is a pretty, intimate, and comfortable choice with a pool and nine rooms that each house up to four people. The pousada has kayaks and sailboats available for guest use.

Mere steps away from the sands of tranquil Praia da Fortaleza [5], A Casa do Sol e da Lua (Rua do Refúgio do Corsário 580, Praia da Fortaleza, tel. 12/3848-9412, www.acasadosoledalua.com.br [6], R$160–240 d) is a casual family-style hotel occupying an adapted family beach house. Meals are served at a collective table, nightly DVD sessions are held in the living room, and there are plenty of decks and hammocks spread around the property where you can disappear with a book or a passion fruit caipirinha. The friendly owners love cooking and are constantly making petiscos for guests. Getting here involves a 7-kilometer (4.3-mile) drive from the Rio–Santos highway.

North of Ubatuba [1], nestled in a jungly garden, Pousada Todas as Luas (Praia Itamambuca, tel. 12/3845-3129, www.todasasluas.com.br [7], R$100–150 d) is owned by a couple of surfers, which accounts for the laid-back atmosphere that reigns here. Rooms are simple but soothing, as are the grounds, which feature plenty of hanging hammocks, a playground, and a yoga bungalow.

Pousada Rosa de Picinguaba (Av. Beira Mar 183, Praia de Picinguaba, tel. 12/3836-9119, www.pousadarosapicinguaba.com.br [8], R$100–160 d) is a charming option for those looking to get off the beaten track. Located in a tiny fishing village, Rosa’s B&B/artist’s atelier is idyllically surrounded by virgin beaches and the Parque Estadual da Serra do Mar [9]. Accommodations are rustic, but full of beachhouse character, and adorned with Rosa’s engaging ceramic pieces.