One of Brazil [1]’s oldest urban settlements, Paranaguá was founded in the 1550s on the banks of the lazy Rio Itiberê as it flows into the Baía da Paranaguá. The town’s importance as a major commercial port has destroyed much of its charm. Nonetheless its small historical center has its share of handsome old houses and Portuguese-style colonial churches.
These, together with a low-key atmosphere and some unassuming but very decent seafood restaurants, make it a worthwhile place to kill a few hours while you’re waiting for a boat to Ilha do Mel [2] or for the Sunday Serra Verde Express [3] train to Curitiba [4].
Among Paranaguá’s handful of churches, the oldest and most imposing is the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário (Largo Monsenhor Celso, no phone, 8 a.m.–6 p.m. daily), parts of which date back to 1578. Nearby, built by and for the town’s slave population, the modest 18th-century Igreja de São Benedito (Rua Conselheiro Sinimbu, no phone, 8 a.m.–6 p.m. daily) still retains all its original features.
Construction of the imposing stone Colégio dos Jesuítas began in the late 1600s when the city’s elite invited Jesuit priests to set up a school for their sons. After later serving as a military barracks and a customs house, it is now occupied by the Museu de Arqueologia e Etnologia (Rua General Carneiro 66, tel. 41/3422-2511, 9:30 a.m.–noon and 1–6 p.m. Tues.–Fri., noon–6 p.m. Sat.–Sun., R$3), which has an engaging collection of local Tupi-Guarani artifacts and regional folk art created by Paraná [5]’s earliest European settlers.
Casa do Barreado (Rua José Antônio da Cruz 78, tel. 41/3423-1830, noon–3 p.m. Sat.–Sun., R$25) has the best food in town combined with a lovely garden setting. The highlight of the prix fixe self-service regional buffet is barreado, but there is also galinha na púcura (chicken cooked in a clay casserole) and grilled fresh fish. Locally produced cachaças and delicious homemade desserts are also included.
Overlooking the river, Danúbio Azul (Rua 15 de Novembro 95, tel. 41/3423-3255, 11:30 a.m.–6 p.m. and 7–11 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Sun., R$15–20) offers both à la carte and buffet service featuring a variety of salads, meat, and seafood dishes.
For cheap and tasty seafood, head to the Mercado Municipal do Café (Rua General Carneiro, tel. 41/3423-2155, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 9 a.m.–noon Sun.), a former coffee market where you’ll find a string of rustic restaurants and bars as well as stalls selling regional handicrafts.
Paranaguá is 92 kilometers (57 miles) from Curitiba. Viação Graciosa (tel. 41/3423-1215, www.viacaograciosa.com.br [6]) offers frequent bus service to Curitiba [4] and Antonina [7] via Morretes [8].
Links:
[1] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/discover-brazil
[2] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/the-south/parana/curitiba-paranagua/ilha-do-mel
[3] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/the-south/parana/curitiba-paranagua/the-serra-verde-express
[4] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/the-south/parana/curitiba
[5] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/the-south/parana
[6] http://www.viacaograciosa.com.br
[7] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/the-south/parana/curitiba-paranagua/antonina
[8] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/the-south/parana/curitiba-paranagua/morretes