Planning Your Time

Brasília [1] was built in the middle of nowhere, and despite the fact that this region is growing faster than any other in Brazil [2], geographically it continues to be the middle of nowhere. Roads linking major cities are actually in decent shape, but distances are enormous. Although Brasília is easily reached by plane from all other cities, flights to the more remote cities of Mato Grosso [3] and Mato Grosso do Sul [4] (Cuiabá [5], Campo Grande [6], and Corumbá [5]) are quite expensive.

That said, unless you’re a die-hard fan of modernist architecture, you can see most of Brasília’s top attractions in one very full day. Add to that nearby attractions such as Pirenópolis [7] and the Chapada dos Veadeiros [8] and you have a comfortable 5–6-day trip.

Beyond that, you’ll need to have substantial time at your disposal. For instance, it’s well worth spending 3–4 days in Goiás Velho [9], one of the loveliest of Brazil’s historic towns—not only because of its distance, but also to soak up its languid colonial atmosphere and immerse yourself in its unspoiled landscapes. Reserve 5–7 days for Mato Grosso [3], where you can spend a day or two in the Chapada dos Guimarães [10] and then the remaining time exploring the northern Pantanal. Similarly, a week is recommended for Mato Grosso do Sul [4], where aside from the southern Pantanal, you might want to explore Bonito [11], whose natural attractions deserve at least 2–3 days.

In terms of the Pantanal [12], the ideal way to experience the wetlands is to book a package at a fazenda lodge [13]. These all-inclusive guesthouses offer a wealth of eco-activities, but also usually stipulate a minimum stay of at least three days.

Brasília [1] and Goiás [14] are best visited during the dry season, which lasts from March to October. During this time, skies are impossibly blue and temperatures tend to be comfortable—22°C (75°F), and even cooler in the mountains. From April to June, the blooming wildflowers turn the normally scrubby, dun-colored Cerrado [15] into a patchwork of color. From August to October things heat up, with temperature easily hitting 38°C (100°F), although nights are usually cooler.

In Brasília, the Saharan heat and dryness can become quite unbearable, and even the locals complain of parched throats and nosebleeds. Make sure to stock up on mineral water and sunscreen. As for the Pantanal, the rainy season (November to March) turns the wetlands into a lush landscape of green, but makes both wildlife observation and transportation more difficult. For this reason, the dry season (April to October) is usually preferred for travel.