Bar do Zé (Barão do Rio Branco 1213, tel. 67/3324-4169, 7 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) is a classic Campo Grande boteco that’s been around since the 1940s. Early in the day, locals stop by for a cafezinho and savory snacks, while later on they come in search of conversation and a bem gelada (“cold one”). The sidewalk tables are great for watching the world go by.
An antidote to the wilds of the Pantanal  is Café Mostarda (Av. Afonso Pena 3952, tel. 67/3026-8469, 5 p.m.–1 a.m. Sun.–Thurs., 5 p.m.–3 a.m. Sat.–Sun.), a trendy urban café/bar with sleek metallic furniture, Internet terminals, fancy cocktails, and a sprawling patio where you can sip fancy fruit caipirinhas and share petiscos or light meals.