A phalanx of overpriced look-alike restaurants at the embarcadero employ aggressive waiters and competing marimba bands, all in an attempt to corral tourists going to or from boat trips down the canyon. Eateries in town are mellower, and offer a better value.
Part of the Hotel Los Ángeles, Parachic’s Cafetería (Calle Mexicanidad and Av. Julian Grajáles, 7 a.m.–10:30 p.m. Wed.–Mon., 7 a.m.–3 p.m. Tues., US$3.50–6) has a bright appealing dining area, with cantaloupe-colored walls and pretty iron-and-wood settings. An open-air corridor with tables in the back looks onto the hotel’s parking lot, but gets nice air and light nonetheless. It serves simple tasty meals, like beef stuffed chiles rellenos, mole enchiladas, and spicy pork tacos, and has a good lunch deal: soup, main dish, and a drink for US$4.50.
Facing the central plaza, Los Corredores (Calle Francisco Madero 35, tel. 961/616-0760, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. daily) has reasonably good food and a pleasant setting, especially in the rear garden area. The restaurant is best known for beef and pork dishes prepared with pepita, a thick spicy sauce made from pumpkin seeds.