Tornabé

Seven kilometers west of Tela [1] via a rough dirt road is Tornabé (from its original name, “Turn Bay”), the largest Garífuna village on the north coast [2]. Lined along a dirt road parallel to the beach, it’s a quiet place to relax and let the sun and waves lull you into a trance. The beach here is relatively clean. Accommodations and food are limited, so don’t come looking for luxury.

Local fishermen will take visitors out to Punta Sal [3] for a negotiable fee, either dropping them off for the day or acting as guides. Trips into Laguna de los Micos [4] can also be arranged.

About the best place to stay in town is with Don Santos, who rents a few simple cabins on the beach for US$12, with fans and a communal latrine. A couple of other folks around town also have rooms for rent. There’s a beach hotel at the east end of town aptly called The Last Resort, but it was in poor shape at last report and is not recommended. Good food can be found, among other places, at Merendero Naidy, just near the Baptist church, with inexpensive local food. Ansela Santos also sells food out of her house. Fill up on pan de coco (coconut bread), as the women here make the best on the coast.

Note: It’s not recommended to walk on the beach outside of Tornabé toward either Tela [1] or Miami [5], as muggings have been reported. Stick to the beach near town and you’ll be just fine.

Past Tornabé (if you’ve come from the main road, and not via San Juan [6] and its bumpy road) is Honduras Shores Plantation (tel. 504/448-1887, www.hondshores.com [7]), a private resort development along the beach with great cabins available for rent. The cabins are one- and two-bedroom (US$106 or US$150, respectively), with a fully-equipped kitchen and living room. They are also unfortunately at the far end of the development, a good 10-minute walk to the beach, but there is a swimming pool right next to the cabins, and access to Los Micos lagoon [4], with kayaks available.

While the rack rate is a bit overpriced, there are often specials during the low season, such as three nights for the price of two, or even two for one at times. Monthly rates are available as well, and some owners also rent out their larger three- and four-bedroom properties. The resort has tight 24-hour security, so call before showing up.

Across the road and along the beach is the Tela Beach Club, part of the same resort, with a restaurant, a large pool, and a fantastic beach with palms trees swaying in the breeze. Day use of the property is welcome, although if you come on a weekday in the low season, you may be the only one around. A taxi from Tela should be around US$3.

Getting to Tornabé

Buses between Tornabé and Tela [1] (US$0.50) depart several times a day, the last in either direction at around 5 p.m. Buses leave Tela from near the market. Two roads reach the village, the shortest via San Juan [6] near the beach, but this is frequently impassable during the rains, as the lagoon opens an outlet to the sea.

Another all-weather road departs the Tela–San Pedro Sula highway from the police post three kilometers past Lancetilla Garden [8]. Follow this paved road 5.5 kilometers to a dirt road on the right side leading to Tornabé in 1.5 kilometers. Taxis are also cheap—a driver may try to charge you US$3 if you are going alone, or US$5 for a carload (up to four passengers).