Roughly 30 kilometers southwest of La Paz  on the road to Marcala , set two kilometers off the highway, is the town of San Pedro de Tutule, a market town for the villages in the surrounding mountains. San Pedro de Tutule, along with the region around La Esperanza , is one of the last bastions of pure Lenca Indians in the country.
Should you find yourself in this lovely, rustic little town, Hospedaje San Pedro (tel. 504/933-0599, US$2 pp) has four basic rooms. The attached restaurant serves a generous plato típico with truly delectable hot pepper–flecked white cheese for US$1.25.