If you can’t get to Rio [1] for Carnaval [2], you can still experience an authentic slice of the action by taking part in the ensaios (rehearsals) every weekend by Rio’s various escolas de samba. Aside from getting a behind-the-scenes glimpse at the makings of a successful desfile (parade), you’ll get to soak up some authentic neighborhood atmosphere while listening to terrific samba.
Since most schools are in the Zona Norte [3], sometimes close to favelas [4], you’re best off taking a tour or a taxi. Below are a few of the most traditional samba schools. Mangueira and Salgueiro are the most popular for tourists, with the best infrastructure. They are also the closest to the Centro [5].
As Carnaval approaches, the escolas de samba hold dress rehearsals at the Sambódromo [14], which are open to the public. You can also catch them at the newly opened Cidade de Samba (Rua Rivadávia Correia 60, Gamboa, tel. 24/2213-2503, www.cidadedosambarj.globo.com [15], 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Tues.–Sat., R$10), a vast complex created out of Rio [1]’s abandoned dockside warehouses.
Here the Grupo Especial escolas have ample space to store materials, sew costumes, build allegorical floats, and display their talents to the public — usually on Thursday nights, when a combined show and buffet costs R$150. Since this area is only starting to be revitalized, make sure you take a taxi here.
For more information about escolas de samba and ensaios, contact the Liga das Escolas de Samba (tel. 21/3213-5151, www.liesa.globo.com [16]).
Links:
[1] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/rio-de-janeiro/rio-de-janeiro-city
[2] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/rio-de-janeiro/rio-de-janeiro-city/entertainment-and-events/festivals-and-events/carnaval
[3] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/rio-de-janeiro/rio-de-janeiro-city/sights/zona-norte
[4] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/rio-de-janeiro/favelas
[5] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/rio-de-janeiro/rio-de-janeiro-city/sights/centro
[6] http://www.beija-flor.com.br
[7] http://www.academicosdogranderio.com.br
[8] http://www.imperioserrano.com
[9] http://www.mangueira.com.br
[10] http://www.gre-portela.com.br
[11] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/bahia/chapada-diamantina/andarai
[12] http://www.salgueiro.com.br
[13] http://www.unidosdatijuca.com.br
[14] http://www.moon.com/destinations/brazil/discover-brazil/explore-brazil/carnaval-party-planner
[15] http://www.cidadedosambarj.globo.com
[16] http://www.liesa.globo.com