Sights

Stewart/Hyder International Chamber of Commerce operates the Stewart Visitors Information Centre (250/636-9224 or 888/366-5999, www.stewart-hyder.com [1], daily 9 a.m.–6 p.m. mid-May–Sept.) in Stewart [2], at the west end of 5th Avenue.

Housed in a Fire Hall from 1910, the Stewart Historical Society Museum (Columbia St. and 6th Ave., 250/636-2568, daily 10 a.m.–7 p.m. July–Aug., C$5) has wildlife specimens on the first floor as well as numerous historical items both upstairs and out front.

On the U.S. side of the international border stands a tiny stone storehouse built in 1896 by Captain Gilliard. The building looks like an old jail and once served that purpose, but for much of its life it was a shoe repair shop. On the mudflats in front of Hyder are hundreds of old pilings, remnants of what was once a town of 1,000 people. The straight row of pilings in front of Stewart is all that remains of the aborted transcontinental railroad.

About five miles out of Hyder [2] (turn right at the end of the main drag) is Fish Creek Wildlife-Viewing Area. Late July–mid-September the creek is filled with pink salmon, along with some of the world’s largest chum salmon—some weighing as much as 35 pounds. A viewing platform provides an excellent vantage point for watching brown (and a few black) bears that feast on the salmon. Forest Service (250/636-2367) staff are on hand to ensure the safety of bear-watchers and to answer questions; see bear photos at www.fishcreek.org [3].

The road beyond Fish Creek is well worth driving, but before heading out, be sure to ask about road conditions and snow levels; travel by RV is not recommended. Just 0.25 miles beyond Fish Creek are remains of an old brothel operated by Dolly, Ketchikan [4]’s best-known madam. Continuing north, the road follows the Salmon River, passes the remains of a covered bridge that once provided access to a remote mine, then begins a tortuous climb, reentering Canada along the way.

The first glimpses of stunning Salmon Glacier come into view 17 miles from Hyder, but the views improve as the ever-narrowing road climbs above the tree line to a lookout point 23 miles from town. Beyond the glacier is Tide Lake, site of the world’s greatest recorded annual snowfall: 88 feet in 1971.

Gorgeous Bear Glacier, 20 miles east of Stewart [2] on Highway 37A, should not be missed. Like its more famous cousin, Juneau’s Mendenhall [5], it is a “drive-up glacier” with the highway passing close to its base. The small lake in front is often filled with icebergs.