Heading south from Tupper Lake [1] on Route 30, you’ll come to Long Lake, a 14-mile stretch of water that is really just an engorged section of the Raquette River. At the intersection of Routes 30 and 28N presides the village of Long Lake, dominated by the creaky, rectangular Adirondack Hotel, an 1870s hostelry with wide verandas.
Just across the Long Lake bridge from the hotel is a public beach (Route 30, just south of the bridge, open dawn to dusk, with year-round heated bathrooms) and boat launch.
One of the region’s most popular canoe trips begins at the Long Lake launch and heads north along the Raquette River through the High Peaks [2] region. Past the High Peaks, paddlers can choose to either continue on the Raquette River to Tupper Lake or portage to Upper Saranac Lake.
Either way, the trip covers about 40 miles and takes about four days. Boats and canoes can be rented at Long Lake Marina (Rte. 30, 518/624-2266), in the village center. To take a scenic seaplane flight, contact Helms Aero Service (Rte. 30, 518/624-3931).
At the southern end of Long Lake ascends the double-peaked Owls Head. The well-marked, 3.5-mile trail leading to the top is of moderate difficulty and takes about four hours to hike round-trip. Along the way you’ll pass streams, valleys, a fire tower, Lake Eaton—a good place for a swim—and good views of the High Peaks [2].
To reach the trailhead, take Route 30 one mile north of Long Lake village to Endion Road and watch for signs.
You can’t miss Hoss’s Country Corner (Lake St., 518/624-2481), a big, square emporium built in the classic Adirondack style. Inside you’ll find everything from groceries and clothing to handicrafts and a good selection of regional books.
Two miles north of the village is the 137-site Lake Eaton Campground (Rte. 30, 518/624-2641). Five miles west of Long Lake is the 80-site Forked Lake Campground (North Point Rd., off Rte. 30, 518/624-6646). For reservations at either, call 800/456-CAMP.
On the shores of the lake is the fourth-generation, family-run 
Long View Lodge (Deerland Rd., Rtes. 28 and 30, 518/624-2862, www.longviewlodge.com [3], $75–95 d, with breakfast), a comfortable, low-key place with 17 guest rooms, two cottages, and a private beach equipped with canoes and other boats.
Though now better known for its restaurants than for its guest rooms, the Adirondack Hotel (Rte. 30, 518/624-4700, www.adirondackhotel.com [4], $90–120 in summer, $68–85 off-season, some rooms share baths) still accommodates overnight visitors. The rooms are spartan but clean.
The Long Lake Diner (Rte. 30, 518/624-3941) serves breakfast and lunch, along with a bar menu later in the day. The Adirondack Hotel (Rte. 30, 518/624-4700, $16) holds a popular café that’s open for breakfast, lunch, and a light dinner, and a more formal dining room that serves full-course dinners. In the lobby stands an enormous stuffed bear, and to one side is an inviting tap room.
Links:
[1] http://www.moon.com/destinations/new-york-state/the-adirondacks/northwest-lakes/tupper-lake
[2] http://www.moon.com/destinations/new-york-state/the-adirondacks/high-peaks
[3] http://www.longviewlodge.com
[4] http://www.adirondackhotel.com