Trip Itinerary: Hiking in New Mexico

Not only is New Mexico’s mountain scenery stunning, but the population is sparse, so it’s very easy to get out of town and have the natural splendor all to yourself. This route, which takes nine days, caters to hikers who want to spend as much time as possible outside of the cities. When you arrive in New Mexico and see the scenery, it’s tempting to put on your boots and head straight out, but unless you’re coming from a comparable elevation, stick to clambering in foothills and scenic drives for the first couple of days. Drink plenty of liquids, and head to bed early.

If you’d prefer not to do the overnight backpacking trip suggested below, leave Taos a day earlier and take a day hike in Bandelier National Monument instead, staying the night in nearby Los Alamos. In the morning, you can have a longer day at Valles Caldera. As for timing, don’t try this itinerary any earlier than mid-May; even then you will still encounter snowpack at higher elevations. If you’re especially interested in rafting, go in the early part of the summer, when the river is fullest. Visiting in the fall may be colder, but the glowing yellow aspen groves that stud the mountains are a major attraction.

Day 1

Arrive at Albuquerque’s Sunport; pick up your rental car and head north to your hotel in Santa Fe. If you arrive on an early flight, take a detour to Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument for an easy hourlong hike—but don’t push yourself too hard.

Hiker explores a slot canyon at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, New Mexico.
A slot canyon at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, New Mexico, carved by repeated flash floods. Photo © Darla Hallmark/123rf.

Day 2

Rent a bike and get oriented downtown, then head down the Santa Fe Rail Trail to Lamy or cruise around La Tierra Trails in the rolling hills west of the city. Return to Santa Fe for a hearty barbecue dinner at Cowgirl BBQ.

Day 3

Take your pick of several hikes in the Santa Fe area: The Rio en Medio trail north of Tesuque is a good one, or make the trek along Aspen Vista if the leaves are turning. At night, relax in the hot tubs at Ten Thousand Waves, then have a late dinner at Izanami.

Santa Fe, Taos, and Albuquerque

Day 4

Drive to Taos via the high road, spending the afternoon around town or on a short hike in Hondo Canyon near Taos Ski Valley (grab a coffee and a sandwich at the Taos Cow in Arroyo Seco when you head up this way). At night, meet other outdoorsy types at Eske’s Brew Pub. Bunk at the Taos Inn.

Day 5

Start out early toward Red River to make an overnight hike up the back of Wheeler Peak, the highest point in the state.

Day 6

Hike back down the mountain and head back to Taos. Around sunset, relax in Blackrock Springs. Spend the night in Taos.

Biking through aspens on the South Boundary Trail in New Mexico.
Biking through aspens on the South Boundary Trail in New Mexico. Photo © Jeremy Ridge, licensed Creative Commons Attribution.

Day 7

Hike or mountain bike along the South Boundary Trail, or go rafting through the white water in the Taos Box. Spend the night in Taos.

Day 8

Drive back south via the low road and take a guided hike in Valles Caldera National Preserve; stay the night in Jemez Springs, where you can soak tired muscles in the healing waters.

Valles Caldera National Preserve. Photo © Steven Horak.

Day 9

Return to Albuquerque via the Jemez Mountain Trail. Grab a last bite of green-chile stew at The Frontier if you have time before your flight.

Zora O’Neill

About the Author

Zora O’Neill has lived in New York City since 1998, but she still calls New Mexico home. Growing up, she attended ceremonial dances at Taos Pueblo and camped in the Pecos Wilderness-but she took it for granted, and perhaps even complained about it when she was dragged out of bed before dawn for some adventure. It wasn’t until she moved away and traveled the world that she realized what a wild, culturally rich place she’d been raised in.

Zora’s travels and writing have taken her on a circuitous route back to her home. Graduate study in the Middle East taught her about the Arab roots of adobe and irrigation channels; visiting hotels in southern Spain was disorienting-the brick floors, thick walls, and shady courtyards felt just like those in Santa Fe; and in Mexico, she followed the threads of Spanish and indigenous culinary traditions as they made their way up to her home state.

During her travels, Zora has been particularly interested in food, occasionally working as a cook, caterer, and cookbook author (Forking Fantastic! Put the Party Back in Dinner Party was published in 2009). Researching Moon New Mexico gave her the excuse to seek out the best red chile enchiladas and most creative uses of local organic produce. Zora is also the author of Moon Santa Fe, Taos & Albuquerque. She maintains a blog about her cooking, travel, and guidebook-research experiences at rovinggastronome.com. She also maintains an update website for this book, moonnewmexico.com, where you can see what has changed since publication. Zora welcomes email from readers at zora@rovinggastronome.com.

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