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Hike Cali’s El Cerro de las Tres Cruces, Colombia

A weekend ritual for many Caleños is to hike up El Cerro de las Tres Cruces (Three Cross Hill), west of the Santa Monica neighborhood. The climb will get your blood pumping, and at the top and along the way, you’ll have some good views of Cali, especially early in the day. The ascent will take about an hour. At the top, if you still feel energetic, you can join Cali’s fit and fabulous as they work out in the makeshift outdoor gym next to the crosses. It’s quite a scene up there. Bring a little cash with you to enjoy a freshly squeezed orange juice.

There is a story behind the hill’s namesake crosses. According to legend, in 1837 two friars decided that they had had enough of the prostitution, plagues, fires, dengue fever, and famine in Cali, and placed the blame squarely on the Buziraco, a demon who, after having been expelled from Cartagena, made his way to Cali to this hilltop. The first cross that was set on the hill was destroyed by an earthquake (Buziraco’s fault), so in 1938 it was decided to build three concrete crosses. They have withstood the test of time so far, and there have been no further reports of Buziraco’s antics.

Hikers El Cerro de las Tres Cruces overlooking Cali in Colombia.
The popular hike up El Cerro de las Tres Cruces is recommended for weekend mornings only, when you are assured of being in good company. Photo © :)gab(:, licensed Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike.

The hardest part about the walk is figuring out where to start it. Various paths lead to the top—not far from Granada—in the Altos de Normandía neighborhood or in Juanambú. If you can find your way to Avenida 10 Oeste at Calle 12N, you will be close to the path and can ask anyone you come across for directions. If you’re not going with someone who knows how to get there, take a cab and request to be dropped off close to the sendero al Cerro de las Tres Cruces (path to Three Crosses Hill).

It’s recommended to take this popular hike on weekend mornings only, when you are assured of being in good company (hundreds of others), although there is usually always a police presence along the well-marked and well-trodden path. Parts of the path are quite steep, and you may need to climb up on all fours at some points. Therefore, don’t bring items that you don’t need, so you can have your hands free. And bring water.

Cali

Andrew Dier

About the Author

Andrew Dier and his Colombian partner Vio arrived in Bogotá from New York City in 2002. It was initially supposed to be a temporary move-a change of scenery for a while-but 10 years and a couple of adopted street dogs later, bustling Bogotá has gradually become their home.

Excited to share his newfound insider perspective on Colombia with others, Andrew traveled the country corner to corner to research Moon Colombia. Colombia has experienced great change during the past decade, transforming itself from a no-go to a must-see destination. Andrew is continuously astounded by the natural beauty of the country and touched by the genuine warmth of its people.

Andrew is a regular contributor to The City Paper, an English-language newspaper in Bogotá, and has written for a number of publications in the United States. He’s also become a deft translator, mostly for local nonprofit organizations.

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