Visit Belize’s Tobacco Caye
If your tropical island dream includes sharing a small, rustic island with a few dozen travelers, snorkelers, divers, backpackers, and adventurous souls from around the world, then Tobacco Caye is your place. This tiny island within South Water Caye Marine Reserve, has long been a popular backpacker and Belizean tourism destination, especially for divers. Tobacco Caye is just north of Tobacco Cut (a “cut” is a break in the reef through which boats can navigate).
Individual tour guides or resorts can arrange to whisk you each day to snorkeling within a few miles from the caye, fishing trips, or excursions to Man-O-War Caye and Tobacco Range to look for manatees. Glover’s Reef, Blue Hole, and Turneffe trips are available (US$150-200); whale shark tours are usually running March-July. I recommend you book your trips with Tobacco Caye native and guide Nolan Jackson (tel. 501/671-3009 or 501/651-3009), who runs his own tours and knows the area like the back of his hand. He offers snorkeling trips (US$15 pp for 1 hour right off the caye), snorkeling with birding (US$35 pp), fly-fishing (US$250 half-day), live bait fishing (US$35 per hour), manatee-spotting, and transfers to Dangriga (US$20 pp for up to 3).
Where to Stay
Tobacco Caye’s “resorts” offer similar packages but for a range of budgets. All accommodations are Belizean-run family affairs, each a bit different according to the owner’s vision, and are comfortably crowded together on the five acres of sand. Apart from some basic differences in room quality, the more you pay, the better the food you’ll be eating—a pretty important thing when checking into a guest room that also locks you into a meal plan. Some of the accommodations prices are per person per night and include three meals; always ask to be sure.
Tobacco Caye Paradise Cabins (US$80 all-inclusive with 3 meals per day) occupies the northern tip of the island, a short walk from the main bar, with six colorful, clean cabanas with porches right over the sea that will make you want to stay forever.
The small, sandy compound is dotted with palm trees and hammocks and has the classic Tobacco Caye barefoot life vibe. Meals are communal, Wi-Fi is US$2.50 per day, and an activity booth doles out any snorkeling and kayaking gear you might need (at an additional hourly or daily rental fee).
Stepping things up a notch, find the renovated Reef’s End Lodge (US$315-510 for 3 days, includes 3 meals) on the southern shore; seven guest rooms and cabanas have private balconies—with romantic sunset views—fans, and private baths with hot and cold water. There is a bar and restaurant built over the water for those prepaid meals. Reef’s End has the caye’s only dive shop, which can be utilized by anyone on the island; this is an excellent location to begin a shore dive or snorkeling adventure. Dive packages are also available, ranging US$477-1,397 according to the number of days, and include meals, transfers, and two local dives daily.
Newsletter Signup
By clicking ‘Sign Up,’ I acknowledge that I have read and agree to Hachette Book Group’s Privacy Policy and Terms of Use
Joe Jo’s By The Reef (US$200-250, includes 3 meals) is owned by longtime resident Mr. Louis and raises the bar on the island with its six comfortable, private seafront ocean-view cabins with hardwood floors, hot water, and reef views from private decks. There are also three suites above the spacious restaurant, with double beds and baths, and a large veranda ideal for groups. All kayak and snorkeling gear are complimentary, and water excursions can be arranged to nearby cayes. The breeze doesn’t reach this side as much during the day, but the lodgings make up for it, and like all accommodations on the island, nothing is too far away from the main island bar and snack shack.
Windward Lodge (formerly called Tobacco Caye Lodge, US$99 pp, includes 3 meals) occupies a middle strip of the island and offers six guest rooms in four colorful cabins facing the reef. You are summoned to meals by a dinner bell, to head to the newly renovated, screened dining room on-site. There’s also a bar and snack shop, as well as hammocks on the beach. A few steps away, the Tobacco Caye Marine Station hosts visiting scientists, and you can ask to check out its reference materials on the area’s habitats and species, rent snorkel gear (US$10 per day), or head out on a night snorkel (US$15 pp) with these experts. Note that they are closed during the slow tourist season.
Getting There
Water taxis to Tobacco Caye leave when the captain says there are enough passengers—but usually run 9am-1pm from the Riverside Café or the Tackle Stop farther upstream. Captain Buck (tel. 501/669-0869) is one option, or try Fermin, aka Compa (tel. 501/666-8699). The trip costs US$50 one-way or US$35 round-trip, with a return trip usually made midmorning. Captain Nolan Jackson (tel. 501/671-3009) also offers snorkel trips, so he’s a solid pick. Captain Doggie (tel. 501/627-7443) is another charter option; he will take 1-3 people for US$70; groups of 4-12 can expect to pay US$17.50 per person. All the captains usually hang out by Riverside Café, either outside or inside.
By calling ahead to Reef’s End Lodge or Tobacco Caye Lodge, you can arrange a pickup anytime from Dangriga and ensure a boat will still be there if you are arriving after midday. Be advised that if you need a boat after 3pm, you’ll pay a lot more—seas get rough, and a private charter is necessary. Plan accordingly.
Newsletter Signup
By clicking ‘Sign Up,’ I acknowledge that I have read and agree to Hachette Book Group’s Privacy Policy and Terms of Use
Pin For Later
