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Driving the Low Road from Santa Fe to Taos

Following the winding Rio Grande up into the mountains is the highlight of this drive north, mostly along Highway 68. The route begins just beyond Española, passing into a narrowing canyon and finally emerging at the point where the high plains meet the mountains. This dramatic arrival makes it the better route for heading north to Taos; you can then loop back south via the high road.

the Rio Grande winds through the Orilla Verde Recreation Area in New Mexico
Stop in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area to camp on the banks of the Rio Grande or go rafting. Photo © Davor Lovincic/iStock.

Embudo

Embudo is really just a cluster of houses at a bend in the river where the Chili Line railroad from Denver, Colorado, used to stop (the old station is across the river).

Image of golden fall trees along serene riverbank under pink clouds at sunset.
Fall in Embudo. Photo © Mona Makela/Dreamstime

Classical Gas Museum

An unexpected treat is the roadside Classical Gas Museum, a front yard filled with old service station accoutrements. If the gate is open, the owner is probably home, and you can peek inside and take a stroll around the grounds to see a beautiful collection of neon signs and restored gas pumps.

Vivác Winery

If you’re into wine, keep an eye out for the various wineries just north of Embudo, starting with Vivác, on the main highway. The acclaimed winery has been producing award-winning wines for over two decades.

Dixon

The pleasant little town of Dixon, known for its dense concentration of artists, organic farmers, and vintners, is home to one of the state’s best wineries and a small farmers market.

La Chiripada

At the family-run La Chiripada, on Highway 75 in the center of Dixon, you can sample small-batch wines that have been produced in much the same way for over 40 years.

Dixon Farmers Market

The convivial farmers market usually runs in front of the co-op, though be sure to call in advance for the current location. It’s not a large operation, but you can count on some of the freshest fruits and vegetables around.

Dixon Studio Tour

If you’re in town the first weekend in November, check out the long-running Dixon Studio Tour, which showcases over 25 area galleries and a range of mediums, including woodwork, pottery, jewelry, and glass.

Zuly’s

A good year-round reason to make the turn to Dixon is Zuly’s, serving strong coffee and classic New Mexican food with a bit of a hippie flair; hours cut back slightly in winter.

Pilar

Orilla Verde Recreation Area

Image of river bordered by lush trees with small brown mountain in the distance.
The Taos Junction Bridge. Photo © Rinus Baak/Dreamstime.

Beginning just south of the village of Pilar, 45 miles north of Santa Fe, and stretching several miles north, Orilla Verde Recreation Area is public land along either side of the Rio Grande, used primarily as a put-in or haul-out for rafting, but you can camp on the riverbanks as well. There are seven campgrounds in Orilla Verde; Petaca and Taos Junction have the best sites ($9/night), while Pilar and Río Bravo have electric hookups.

Running about 1.2 miles one-way along the west edge of the river, the Vista Verde Trail is an easy walk with great views and a few petroglyphs to spot in a small arroyo about one-third of the way out. The trailhead is located on the other side of the river, 0.5 mile up the hill from the Taos Junction Bridge off the dirt road Highway 567 (turn left off Hwy. 570 in Pilar, then follow signs into Orilla Verde). Stop first on the main highway at the Rio Grande Gorge Visitors Center (Hwy. 68; 575/751-4899; 8:30am-4:30pm daily June-Aug., 10am- 3pm daily Sept.-May) for maps and other information.

Pilar Yacht Club

Across the road, Pilar Yacht Club is the hub of local activity, selling tubes for lazy floats, serving New Mexican staples and diner food to hungry river rats, and functioning as an office for a couple of outfitters.

Getting There

The low road is more direct than the high road to Taos, and has fewer potential diversions. Driving the 70 miles from downtown Santa Fe to Taos (on U.S. 84/285 and Hwy. 68), with no stops, takes about 1.5 hours. The only spot for gas along this stretch is at Michael’s Mini Mart (1410 Hwy. 68; 505/852-4769) in Velarde.

Steven Horak

About the Author

When Steven Horak uprooted his life in New York City to move to Santa Fe, he wasn’t quite sure what to expect, beyond a new home that would be very different from his old one. Even after a few years in New Mexico, his life is still an adventure. Each day begins and ends with views of the awe-inspiring Sangre de Cristo mountains, which serve as a constant reminder of what makes high desert living so special.

Steven’s wanderlust began during a year studying abroad at the University of East Anglia in Norwich, England. Since then he has traveled extensively, contributing to travel guidebooks on Canada, Costa Rica, and the Czech Republic, among others. He also works as a journalist, communications specialist, and photographer.

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