Totem Poles of Ketchikan, Alaska
The most striking sights in Ketchikan are its totem poles—some of them still painted in rich, vibrant colors while others have surrendered much of that color to the weather. Contrary to one popular belief, they are not religious symbols and were never worshipped. Instead, totem poles were carved to honor important people, record noteworthy events, and proclaim the lineage and history of the people who owned them. There are more than a dozen of these signposts of traditional Tlingit, Haida, and Ts’msyen culture standing sentinel all over the city of Ketchikan, but you’ll find them particularly concentrated in three places.
Totem Bight State Historical Park
The first is Totem Bight State Historical Park (9883 N. Tongass Hwy., 10 mi/16 km north of Ketchikan), which is easily accessed on the city bus. This open-air park also contains a beautiful traditional clan house. Tucked behind Totem Bight park is tiny Potlatch Totem Park, where you can see another clan house, several re-created traditional homes, more totem poles, and, surprisingly, a museum of antique cars and firearms.
Totem Heritage Center
The next collection of totem poles is in the downtown Totem Heritage Center (601 Deermount St.; 907/225-5900; 8am-5pm daily May-Sept., 1pm-5pm Tues.-Sat. off-season; $6 shared admission with the Tongass Historical Museum). The center is a museum where you can view a collection of precious 19th-century totem poles that were amassed and preserved with the permission of Alaska Native elders.
Saxman
You can see about two dozen totem poles in Saxman, an Alaska Native village of about 400 people just 2.5 mi (4 km) south of Ketchikan on the Tongass Highway. The town also includes a carving shop where you can see some of Alaska’s greatest traditional carvers at work. Saxman is best experienced with a 2.5-hour guided tour ($69 adults, $59 ages 3-11, free under 2), which includes entrance to the clan house and a demonstration of traditional dancing in full regalia. Tours are offered April-September, depending on the cruise ship schedule, through Cape Fox Tours (907/225-4421). You can also buy tickets in the gift shop to walk “Totem Row” unaccompanied. If you do that, it’s worth the extra few dollars to get a pamphlet that explains the history and significance of the totem poles around you.
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