Nova Scotia’s Kejimkujik National Park

Deep in the interior of southwestern Nova Scotia, Kejimkujik (kedji-muh-KOO-jick, or “Keji” or “Kedge” for short) National Park lies off Highway 8, about midway between Liverpool and Annapolis Royal. Encompassing 381 sq km (147 sq mi) of drumlins (rounded glacial hills), island-dotted lakes (legacies of the last ice age), and hardwood and conifer forests, the park and the adjacent Tobeatic Game Sanctuary are an important refuge for native wildlife and town-weary Nova Scotians.

Wildlife enthusiasts visit the park for bird-watching (including barred owls, pileated woodpeckers, scarlet tanagers, great crested flycatchers, and loons and other waterfowl) and may also spot black bears, white-tailed deer, bobcats, porcupines, and beavers. The many lakes and connecting rivers attract canoeists and swimmers in warm weather, as well as anglers (particularly for perch and brook trout). Hikers can choose from a network of trails, some leading to backcountry campgrounds; some of the campgrounds are also accessible by canoe. In winter, cross-country skiers take over the hiking trails.

Recreation

Hiking

The two most popular park activities are hiking and canoeing. The Beech Grove Trail, an easy 2-km (1.2-mi) loop, starts at the visitor center and wends along the Mersey River, where it climbs a drumlin hilltop swathed in an almost-pure beech grove. The Farmlands Trail is another drumlin variation, and the 1.1-km (0.7-mi) loop makes its way up a drumlin to an abandoned farm on the hilltop. A little farther south along the park access road is the trailhead for the 1-km (0.6-mi) Rogers Brook loop, which passes through a forest of red maple and hemlock trees. The 6.3-km (3.9-mi) one-way Ukme’k Trail follows the Mersey River through a similar forest, but with regular river views. Start in the east from the Mersey River Trailhead and in the west from Mill Falls, near the visitor center.

Canoeing

You can rent canoes and paddleboards at Jakes Landing from Whynot Adventure (1507 Main Parkway, 902/682-2282, late May-early Oct., $10 per hour, $40 per day), on the northeast side of large Kejimkujik Lake; the adjacent stretch of the Mersey River is placid and suitable for beginning paddlers. This company also provides shuttles and camping equipment for overnight paddling trips.

Accommodations and Camping

Within the park, Jeremy’s Bay Campground (mid-May-mid-Oct., $27.50-31.50), on the north side of Kejimkujik Lake, has 360 sites, some with power hookups, as well as washrooms and showers, fire pits and firewood ($10), a playground, picnic areas, and an interpretive program. Another 46 wilderness sites ($31) are scattered in the woodlands and offer toilets, tables, grills, and firewood. From mid-January, sites can be booked through the Parks Canada Reservation Service (519/826-5391 or 877/737-3783) for $12 per reservation.

Milford House (Hwy 8, 902/532-2617, $193-280 s or d) is in South Milford, about 20 km (12.4 mi) north of the park toward Annapolis Royal. The old-style resort features a main lodge and 28 lakeside cabins. All cabins have separate bedrooms, a wood-burning fireplace, and a full bathroom. Four hiking trails radiate out from the resort, some leading to lakes where canoes are available free of charge. Dinner and breakfast is a very reasonable adult $43, child $31, per day, or order à la carte. Three cabins are winterized, but there are no dining facilities outside of summer.

Information

The Visitor Centre (902/682-2772, mid- May-Oct. daily 8:30am-4:30pm) is just beyond the park entrance. This is the place to buy day passes (adult $6.25, senior $5.25) and fishing licenses ($10 per day, $35 annual) and pick up literature on the park, including hiking trail descriptions.

Getting There

Although the park is just 50 km (31 mi) from Annapolis Royal along Highway 8, allow about an hour to reach the entrance, as the road is narrow and winding.

From Halifax, take Highway 101 along the South Shore to Liverpool and then Highway 8 north. The total distance from Halifax to the park is 170 km (105 mi), a two-hour drive.

Related Travel Guide

Moon Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada: With New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland & Labrador

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Andrew Hempstead

About the Author

Wandering the streets of St. John’s, hiking in Terra Nova National Park, and driving the Irish Loop—Andrew Hempstead has done all of this and more.

 

As a professional travel writer, Andrew spends as much time as possible out on the road. During his travels, he experiences the many and varied delights of Newfoundland and Labrador the same way his readers do.

 

Since the early 1990s, Andrew has authored and updated more than 60 guidebooks, and supplied content for regional and national clients like Expedia and KLM. His photography has appeared in a wide variety of media, ranging from international golf magazines to a Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Museum.

 

Andrew and his wife Dianne also own Summerthought Publishing, a Canadian regional publisher of nonfiction books. He is a member of The Diners Club® World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy. Andrew has also spoken on travel writing to a national audience and has contributed to a university-level travel writing textbook.

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