Driving the Low Road from Santa Fe to Taos
Following the winding Rio Grande up into the mountains is the highlight of this drive north, mostly along Highway 68. The route begins just beyond Española, passing into a narrowing canyon and finally emerging at the point where the high plains meet the mountains. This dramatic arrival makes it the better route for heading north to Taos; you can then loop back south via the high road.
Embudo
Embudo is really just a cluster of houses at a bend in the river where the Chili Line railroad from Denver, Colorado, used to stop (the old station is across the river).
Classical Gas Museum
An unexpected treat is the roadside Classical Gas Museum, a front yard filled with old service station accoutrements. If the gate is open, the owner is probably home, and you can peek inside and take a stroll around the grounds to see a beautiful collection of neon signs and restored gas pumps.
Vivác Winery
If you’re into wine, keep an eye out for the various wineries just north of Embudo, starting with Vivác, on the main highway. The acclaimed winery has been producing award-winning wines for over two decades.
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Dixon
The pleasant little town of Dixon, known for its dense concentration of artists, organic farmers, and vintners, is home to one of the state’s best wineries and a small farmers market.
La Chiripada
At the family-run La Chiripada, on Highway 75 in the center of Dixon, you can sample small-batch wines that have been produced in much the same way for over 40 years.
Dixon Farmers Market
The convivial farmers market usually runs in front of the co-op, though be sure to call in advance for the current location. It’s not a large operation, but you can count on some of the freshest fruits and vegetables around.
Dixon Studio Tour
If you’re in town the first weekend in November, check out the long-running Dixon Studio Tour, which showcases over 25 area galleries and a range of mediums, including woodwork, pottery, jewelry, and glass.
Zuly’s
A good year-round reason to make the turn to Dixon is Zuly’s, serving strong coffee and classic New Mexican food with a bit of a hippie flair; hours cut back slightly in winter.
Pilar
Orilla Verde Recreation Area
Beginning just south of the village of Pilar, 45 miles north of Santa Fe, and stretching several miles north, Orilla Verde Recreation Area is public land along either side of the Rio Grande, used primarily as a put-in or haul-out for rafting, but you can camp on the riverbanks as well. There are seven campgrounds in Orilla Verde; Petaca and Taos Junction have the best sites ($9/night), while Pilar and Río Bravo have electric hookups.
Running about 1.2 miles one-way along the west edge of the river, the Vista Verde Trail is an easy walk with great views and a few petroglyphs to spot in a small arroyo about one-third of the way out. The trailhead is located on the other side of the river, 0.5 mile up the hill from the Taos Junction Bridge off the dirt road Highway 567 (turn left off Hwy. 570 in Pilar, then follow signs into Orilla Verde). Stop first on the main highway at the Rio Grande Gorge Visitors Center (Hwy. 68; 575/751-4899; 8:30am-4:30pm daily June-Aug., 10am- 3pm daily Sept.-May) for maps and other information.
Pilar Yacht Club
Across the road, Pilar Yacht Club is the hub of local activity, selling tubes for lazy floats, serving New Mexican staples and diner food to hungry river rats, and functioning as an office for a couple of outfitters.
Getting There
The low road is more direct than the high road to Taos, and has fewer potential diversions. Driving the 70 miles from downtown Santa Fe to Taos (on U.S. 84/285 and Hwy. 68), with no stops, takes about 1.5 hours. The only spot for gas along this stretch is at Michael’s Mini Mart (1410 Hwy. 68; 505/852-4769) in Velarde.
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